You can use any driver as long as its the correct amperage for your motor.

It would have to be text edited. It is a specific format as programmed. I start looking into making the program file a text file. currently it is a Python list but I will see what I can do. It might take some time before the next release or possibly be on the following release.

Hello, you can enter a tool frame offset in the upper right of the config setting tab. The base or world is fixed at zero. All the kinematics are in the teensy file which can be modified if needed.

I don't have anything currently to extract positions from a file like that. I am working on reading in Gcode files but that is a work in progress. Ive thought about making the program file a text editable file, I wonder if that would help you?

I'm not certain how long the solid core wire might last. You might be able to run for quite a while if there isn't too much fatigue, but I would recommend using the stranded flex wire if possible.

Hello, here is the tutorial on programing - counting registers: https://youtu.be/G1nNh6MS-Gc?t=1628

I think that's a good potential solution.

Hello, That shaft you linked from McMaster is the correct shaft, I believe that's the best option to purchase. I only have the completed kits right now and would have to remove the shaft from a kit. Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks.

That is a good idea and one that has been brought up several times. The main issue is that the commands are fed and executed from the windows PC so its hard to have a physical button on the teensy that tells the computer to start sending moves from the command line. I will keep thinking about a way to make this happen. I have thought about trying to find a way to upload the actual motion program to the teensy board and then running without the PC but this will take some development. Let me know if anyone has any ideas on this and I will add this to my list of future updates.

I cant hear it vey well but the movement looks very much like one of the power wires to the driver is incorrect. I would double check the A+A-B+B- wires and make sure they are exactly as the schematic shows - I suspect one of them is off.

That sounds like a wiring issue to the motor. I could be wrong but I would double check the AABB wiring to the motor. If any of those are out of phase the motor will do strange things like that. I would start with swapping one of your cables from the enclosure to the robot and then check the wiring to the motor both from the driver to the plug and also in the base at the plug.

Are you running the older ARCS software or the AR4 software? In the ARCS software for the AR3 you can click calibrate at rest position which will force the robot to the vertical rest position. I would recommend following the directions under the AR3 downloads to upgrade your robot to the AR4 software. When running the AR4 software you have the option to force the calibration to zero or home.

They should be wired "straight through" - each end of the cable will be mirrored, meaning that looking at the soldered side of the connector going clockwise starting at the notch - on end #1 should be green white red black. And then on end 2 should be black red white green. The ends should not be the same.

It looks like your questions might be regarding J1 and J3 turning the wrong directions. There are 2 things that can cause this. If the AABB motor wires are transposed or connected incorrectly this can cause the motors to turn the wrong directions. The other thing that can affect this is if the drivers is not getting the DIR signal.

Also the calibration wil fault out if the switch isn't made within full rotation of that joint so if the 50:1 motor is installed on J1 instead of J3 it wont make it to the switch in time.

It appears J3 is moving too fast and J1 far too slow. I suspect you have the motors swapped. Please check that and let me know.

Are you saying that J7 and the robot are moving together but that J7 is comparatively not able to move fast enough compared to the robot?

Can you email pics/video illustrating the angles commanded vs what is executed so I have an idea how far off each axis is. Double check that you do not have the J1 and J3 motors swapped. This has been a common mistake - with the 50:1 J3 motor and 10:1 J1 motors swapped on the wrong joints the positions will be off quite a bit. Also check your driver dip switch settings to make sure they are on the correct micro step.

You should not need to adjust the voltage output. You can use a multimeter to see what your voltage output is and adjust as desired but typically the output is fairly close to 24vdc and the drivers can accept anywhere from 20vdc up to 50vdc.

That's really slick. keep me posted if you are able to make one, Id love to see pics or video of it.